Cotes du Rhone is one of the most misunderstood names in wine. Although it is a name often attached to the entire Rhone Valley, it is more commonly known as a simple wine distinct from the more complex wines of the northern Rhone Valley.
To hear Michel Chapoutier talk, you might think he's a maverick. ''I'm not trying to make the best wine possible,'' he says. ``I'm trying to create the best expression of the soil.''